Texas, Round 2

Destination: Amarillo

Cadillac Ranch

   Well folks, It was pointed out to me by my wife that I sound like I either hate a place, or I love it in this blog, and I am going to have to admit that it is probably accurate. However, as for Amarillo, I am going to say it was a town I liked, and neither did love or hate. For the most part I would say it was a town worth stopping in. 

   As for the park we stayed at, Fort Amarillo RV Park, we pretty much felt duped in the beginning, but like most places, you settle in by the second day and before you know it it is time to move.  Most of the amenities that the pak promised on the website were out of order, and looked like they had been out of order for a long time. I was disappointed that the hot tub was not working, nor did it look like it had been for a while, and the weirdly carpeted pool area sort of turned me off from having much to do with the wet room at all. I will also add that a good 80 percent of the exercise equipment either did not work, or worked so poorly that you would be risking injury using it. We made the best of it. It just seems that they put the money they make into the nice store they have in front, and have procrastinated fixing most of the out of order park, including the dog runs which were all taped off. 

    We were right behind a Gander Mountain, which was not our usual outdoor setting, but I was able to pick up a good pair of hiking boots made by Gander Mountain, and some of the staff members were exceptionally helpful. It is hard to find the right pair of hiking boots. For a few days I tried on several pair, all having pros and cons, weighing out style and practicality. Since I wear shoes out fast, I needed something comfortable with a tough sole and good arch support. The most stylish ones were lacking in those departments, but yet I did not want to look like a gore tex warrior in the ones that did have those qualities. Finally after three days of running the staff back and forth I found a halfway decent pair that doesn't look too bad and seems durable. I also found that Gander Mountain is a lot more reasonably priced that some of the other big outdoor stores. 

    We were two miles from a store called Natural Grocers, which was a blessing to find since we usually have no choice but do most of our grocery shopping at Walmart. I was also surprised at how reasonable there prices were for a small, independent store. I would also say almost everything in there was organic, and priced the same as what is conventional for most things. I went to this place daily.

   Another place I went to frequently that was responsible for me not losing weight this week was Frank's Bakery. If you are ever in Amarillo, bring lots of cash with you as they do not accept credit card, buy one of everything without thinking, and don't look back. We have found that it is impossible these days to find a good loaf of bread in a lot of towns, let alone good pastries. The bread from grocery stores has a billion ingredients, half of which you would have to be a chemist to understand what it is or what it does to your body. I have made lots of bread in my life, and have found that you can make a good loaf of bread with just flour, yeast, water,a little salt, and lots of love. Frank's hands down competed, if not beat most bakeries I had been to when I stayed in Italy for a few months. They were tied with a couple of the bakeries in Sicily. Since they are from France they seem to take the quality seriously, but they did not do anything extraordinarily fancy. The bread was crusty on the outside and soft on the inside just how you want it with the slight taste of fermentation that comes from the dough rising at the right temperatures for the right amount of time. The pastries were made with a light and flakey croissant dough that felt like a cloud escaped the sky and landed in your mouth. The fillings were made with real fruit, not some sweet, gelled stuff from a can. Although Hana gained absolutely no weight, I am pretty sure even with all of the exercise that I may have only put on a couple of pounds. 

The Big Texan Steak House

The most well known restaurant in Amarillo is the The Big Texan, where you can sit on a stage and eat a 72 oz steak for free as long as you finish it, along with the added salad, a baked potato, and 3 fried shrimp. If there was ever a restaurant that encouraged unbridled gluttony I would have to vote the Big Texan hands down, not only because the portions are the size of Texas itself, but also the fact that everything in there is homemade and tastes so good you can't stop eating. No funky franchise flavored cardboard here folks. Real potato salad, cowboy beans, dressings, bbq sauce and much, much more made from scratch. We have all heard a mother, grandmother, or aunt say "save room for desert" many times in our lives. My advise to you is to go for the desert because it is all good. They even make their own fudge, cookies, and brownies. For the first half of the week I contemplated having my fifteen minutes of fame Cool Hand Luke style up there on that stage below the giant Longhorn Skull with glowing eyes, but I am not sure what I feared more, the discomfort of what it would do to my digestive track, or the anger of Hana when we had to pay 72 dollars for a steak I couldn't finish. That's the gamble, a dollar an ounce. Somewhere around 55,000 have attempted this feat, and only in the ballpark of 9,000 have been successful. Nonetheless, I say by all means do not overlook this place because it looks like a tourist trap. The bbq sauce was so good, I left wishing I could get a big tub of it so I could put it on everything, including ice cream. 

Palo Duro Canyon State Park

As for the outdoors we discovered the Palo Duro Canyon, which takes second place in size to the Grand Canyon. We had a good hike around the park through the trails, and fortunately did not see any snakes, although we did hear one in the brush. It was great to get out into some beautiful scenery after spending most of the week camped next to a busy highway. Maya was a trooper and stuck out the six mile hike we went on, and she got a well deserved bath in the river after. Today she was so worn out she just slept. She has been seeming like she doesn't want to walk too much most days lately. We even took turns to pick her up and carry her on one walk. As she is getting up there in age we are contemplating getting her a dog stroller so she doesn't have to be left out on long walks.

  Overall folks here in Amarillo have been pretty nice. I would say it is worth a few days here if you like to take your time with activities, and need a town to do some shopping in. 

  Since we are six months into the journey I will have a post coming soon summarizing some things we have learned along the way about living and traveling in an rv, what we like and don't like as far as where we have camped, along with some of what we have learned about ourselves. I have to say to any rv people contemplating doing this, not to over think it and just go for it, but don't have overly high expectations. Life isn't a bowl of cherries every day no matter what you are doing or where you are going in this mortal life, so I am not going to say everyday is "living the dream" to quote the overused phrase. It is just living life, but seeing a lot of beautiful places and making a few friends you would not have made otherwise along the way. Hana and I both agree that we don't want to go back to conventional life anytime soon. Speaking for Frankie and Maya, I would say they don't want to anytime soon either.

-James

The Jack Sisemore Traveland RV Museum. An awesome museum we visited, full of vintage RVs and campers that were restored by the Traveland crew. The camper I'm standing in front of was purchased from an 85 year old lady at a gas station, and took 2 years to completely strip and renovate. The process is documented in a photo album, all of which I found very interesting!

Happy Max RV, featured in the movie "RV" with Robin Williams. Beautiful!

I keep checking and re-checking the weather forecast in Taos, hoping it will change. It looks like we're in for several freezing or below freezing nights next week. (How is it colder in New Mexico than Michigan btw!?!) We are also heading into another time zone, which means I'll be waking up bright and early at 5am for work on Eastern time :'( . Yay!

-Hana

Oklahoma

Destination: Medicine Park, Oklahoma

Wow, he had zero expectations for Oklahoma, but this area in the southwest is absolutely beautiful! Home to Wichita Mountains Wildlife Reserve, which is definitely one of the best national parks/reserves we have been to so far. Tons of hiking trails, and guess what? Dogs are allowed!! I would highly recommend it to anyone passing through.

-Hana

Wild longhorns

 We didn't know what to expect from Oklahoma, but got more than we thought we would. We stayed outside of Lawton, OK, which we only went to for groceries. We were across the street from the Wichitaw Wildlife Reserve with a beautiful view of  Lake Lawtonka and the mountains. From the tops of the mountains you can really see how flat everything else is. 

We saw plenty of wild buffalo and longhorns. Often they can be found crossing the street, and you just have to slow down and let them cross. They don't impose an immediate threat unless you get too close to them. On one hike we came across around 30 of them next to the path and we just kept our distance. I do have to say I was scared when I came within a few feet of a copperhead that was on the trail. He blended in to the sand, and almost looked like a stick in the path until I stopped and looked at him closer. From what I am learning about snakes, the ones you don't see are the most dangerous because you can easily step on it, or be in it's zone where it would feel threatened.

Wild buffalo

The Reserve for the most part is beautiful, and you just never know what awaits you around the corner on a hiking path. There are a lot of paths of different levels. Most are very rocky, and some are very steep. There are also some moderately level paths too. We came across some really scenic lakes and creeks that ran across large stones. It is a very peaceful place, and if you are hardcore into hiking you will get your exercise. There are also a lot of half mile to two mile paths. Mountain bikers also flock to a couple of the paths in one area on the outer edge of the reserve.  I also have to mention that the military owns a large part of the land next to the reserve. There was one day hiking that I heard quite a few booms and lots of jets tearing through the air. 

This week has also been exceptionally windy, more windy than anywhere I have ever been. I am not sure if it is just the way it is here, or just wind storms coming through. For the most part the days have been warm and the nights have been cool enough for me to sleep comfortably. I sleep best when the room feels like an ice cooler, and if anyone knows my wife they will know that she will be under an electric blanket while I am next to an open window. 

Almost blew right off the top of the mountain!

Wichita National Wildlife Refuge

Downtown Medicine Park - sculpture

Medicine Park - shopping

 In our week here there hasn't been much socializing or meeting people. I did talk to one guy fishing who gave me a generous amount of shad he collected earlier in the day, a catfish, and a few crappie.  There is a small cobblestone community called Medicine Park that has a stocked creek. Most stores are only open on the weekends or just make their own hours. I was never able to go in the bait shop because it was always closed. I also was looking forward to the bakery in town which was always closed. The one day I went in when it was open you had a choice of either four muffins or a brownie. That was about all she was selling. There was, however, a shop which sold cigar box guitars which is something I recently discovered and am considering making. There are two guys who make them in the town. 


   Ticks have been an issue since we have been on the road. We have been pulling them off the dogs as well as ourselves. I have found them in places you don't want to find them on my own body. They seem to like me more than Hana. This week I alone I have found five, and have bites in other places!

Downtown Medicine Park - riverfront

Frankie-Rock-Climber

  We haven't been to the dentist since being on the road, not that I went that regularly before. I always hated going to the dentist. Nonetheless, I have gotten into the habit of oil pulling. My teeth were stained from coffee, and I want to keep any potential infections at a minimum. I have also read that it has a lot of other health benefits as well. All you do is get a teaspoon of any type oil, I usually use coconut or olive oil, and vigorously swish it in your mouth for 20 minutes then spit it out. After three months I can tell you not only are most of the coffee stains gone, but my teeth are whiter than they ever were after a cleaning. This has saved us a fortune from having to get the under the gum scraping that dentists recommend. 

  I am now becoming active on RV forums, such as the Good Sam Forum. People on the forums are very helpful and more than willing to give any advice or feedback, which is greatly appreciated. It's definitely a good resource for travelers and full timers!

So far most RV parks we have been to are more or less filled with permanent locals, and are located on busy roads. We have been going to these mainly for the full hookups because it was a pain to run out of water every other day, and have to move the RV every day to drain the grey tank. You would have to shower less and not wash dishes often or very well to stretch your supply and grey tank storage. It takes an average of 15 or more minutes just to level the vehicle in most places, so moving it a few times a week in the beginning was taking up too much time. We aren't expecting perfection, and still the pros far outweigh the cons. I am finding it just takes a while to find what suits you best. Also, in the places where the people are more permanent there isn't as much socializing with your neighbors as there is in places where there are more travelers, or people camping for the weekend. Like everything, life is full of trial and error, and overall it is the journey which we most enjoy. 

-James

Weird RV of the Week:

Yes, this is an actual double length city bus converted into a home on wheels!

Next stop, Amarillo!

Texas

Destination: Daingerfield State Park and Dallas, Texas

Small town Texas

 In the 1880's traveling through this part of the country one would have to be on the lookout for bandits and comanches. Another concern would be how much water is in your canteen. Your senses would be much sharper as you would look and listen for any movement of anyone that could be quietly stalking you. These days as a modern pioneer it's men in uniform looking to make extra revenue, tattletales, and people who just don't like the looks of you that you have to look out for. Also rather than having a long ride in a bumpy, wooden coach we now have a built for comfort coach with all modern conveniences. 

   Daingerfield was our first stop. I was happy to learn that in Texas if you are going to fish a private pond or a lake in a state part you don't need a fishing license. We were camped right on a lake full of weeds and lily pads around the edges which meant Bass, along with a few lost rigs. We took the dogs for a walk when a very big man that was staying in a cabin with his family asked us about Maya. He told us how they had a dog that was 160 pounds. He was getting ready to take his boys out night fishing. There weren't many people camped out since it was a sunday night, so we pretty much had a lot of peace and quiet. 

A dark and stormy night

   Lonnie, the large guy from the cabin showed up to fish the next day, and joined me in conversation. Lonnie was arrested for robbery with a knife when he was a teenager, and spent most of his early twenties in prison. He told us how he found God two years before he got out, enlightened us on some of the corruption in the prison system, and about his struggles to get by with his family now. He had a positive hopeful spirit and a desire to learn. At around midnight we called it quits, leaving the pier with the feeling that we made some sincere friends, even if you only know them for a few hours.

The mist over lake Dainger

   One thing that gave me a chuckle about Lonnie was not that he was such a big dude with a hundred and sixty pound dog, but what seemed small to him. He caught a few seven pound catfish the night before, but to him those fish were small. Fishing with him earlier in the day a guy caught a ten inch crappie, to which Lonnie commented, "Looks like you got a good fish for cut bait. He claims that where he lives near Cooper Lake that they are pulling thirty pound catfish out of the water. But along with it all I could tell that Lonnie was a guy with a big heart. He was working two jobs in two different towns to support his family, and like a lot of people struggling to get by. From talking to him I could tell he was a person in search of truth, and looking to better himself in any way that he could. 

  The fishing was slow most of the week, but one sunny day I thought I would give it a shot. A guy in his mid twenties joined me. He gave me a brush hog, which is pretty much a rubber lizard. I caught two large bass on that brush hog, and put them on my stringer. Nearby there was a family group fishing with worms and bobbers, and the kids were having the time of their life pulling these little two inch bait fish out of the water. One of the father's seemed more exited than the kids, "Hurry up and yank it Tucker!" I remembered when I was young how exiting it was for me to catch  bluegill on a stick with some line and a hook someone gave me, so I am not going to downplay any of the joy someone could get even from the smallest fish. I just don't think you need to pull a monster out of the water to enjoy fishing. Nonetheless, the kids saw my bass and marvelled. Later the guy's wife commented on the size of my fish when the sourpuss had to say, "Those are barely legal!" I had a laugh to myself, let him know they were well over the 14 inch limit. His response was, "what are they....15 or 16 inches?"

Maya enjoying her bass dinner.

Like I said, it is not the spirit of a true fisherman to try and wreck how anyone feels about their catch. My fishing buddy told me they were more than likely yuppies from Dallas, and two days in a state park cabin was a big outdoor adventure for them. I didn't let it wreck my joy, and I gave one of the fish to my friend that had given me the brush hog. If a person is in a place that they need to attempt to wreck someone's happiness because they accomplished something, then they are doing themselves the most disservice. We all have days we get skunked in life in one department or another, if sometimes not all, and we all have days that just feel like it was our day. That's just the way it goes. If we see a neighbor have his day, we just wish him the best and be grateful for what we have. 

We dropped into the Dallas area for a day and found some good mexican food. I was still hungry so I headed into the smokehouse next door and got a pulled pork sandwich which was worth the four dollars. Today on the way out of Texas we stopped at a roadside place  run by an older woman that had jerky, fried pies, fudge, brisket, smoked cheese, and antiques. We got a little of everything, and I have to say the brisket was as good as it smelled. Even Hana commented that it smelled good, and she doesn't eat much meat outside of fish once and a while. We are going to spend a week in Oaklahoma and then go back through Texas next week, so we will have more about the Texas experience later. 

-James